June 6
Saturday was a very long day with as much walking and sightseeing as our feet could bear. We had purchased a Stockholm visitors card which gave us access to most museums and sights as sell as public transportation for 72 hours for about $100 each.
Our plan was to spend the day on the island of Djurgarden and see its many sights. We walked to Slussen with some Northern Swedes from the hotel. We took a boat to the island, part of our visitors card.
The renowned Vasa museum was first, rated a must see 3 star attraction. The Vasa was a warship built in 1628 which sank 10 minutes into its maiden voyage in the Stockholm harbour. The mostly intact ship was raised in 1961 and is well preserved in its indoor museum. It was more impressive than I expected, with its hull almost four stories in height. It was decorated with intricate sculptures and figurehead to honor the King. I think they spent too much time and money on the pretty stuff and not enough on the structural engineering.
Next stop was the Nordiska Museet, museum of Swedish cultural life from the 16th to 21st centuries. We went quickly through the exhibits of furniture, fashion, jewelry and folkart. I would give it a 1 star.
Our Breck neighbors Nancy and George had recommended several highlights of Stockholm. One of these was the the Thiels Galleriet which is a small gallery housed in a formed mansion. So we started walking in a light drizzle. Nancy had said to take the trolley but we weren’t sure which one or where we were heading. We jumped on a bus when rain really started and got off where the driver said to. Hah from there it was a long walk.. but a beautiful stroll through a park like setting with water in view most of the way and very few people to share it with. We did eventually end up at the right place and it was worth it. Had quick lunch in the museum cafe. The light filled art nouveau home was built in 1907 to house the vast art collection of wealthy banker Ernest Thiel. Every wall was covered with art of famous Nordic artists including Edward Munch, Carl Larsen, Anders Zorn and sculptures by Rodin.
By the time we finished at Thiels the sun came out and we were ready for Skansen. This is an outdoor folk museum and an amusement park. It was Sweden’s National Day on June 6th and we wanted to see the ceremony and festivities and the royal family. We boarded the bus right outside the museum entrance and ended up back in Stockholm instead of staying on Djurgarden island. So by the time we figured out how to get back via public transportation we ended up walking most of the way because roads were closed for the royal family to arrive. We made it to Skansen around six and realized we could not get a spot where we could see anything and everything was in Swedish. All the exhibits and most of the restaurant were closed. Good thing we didn’t pay an entrance fee. The park itself was beautiful and historic buildings and farmhouses gave us sense of how hard the farming life in 1700 and 1800s must have been.
We lucked into an outside table at a little restaurant on a pedestrian alley in the old town. Kryp In was recommended by Rick Steves and met our expectations. We tried a reindeer dish and a lamb dish, beet and goat cheese salad and some beer. Excellent end to a lovely day!