Early start (6am) because it’s a long way to Ithaca. We sailed under the new Rio Bridge that connects Peloponnese to the mainland. But I missed it because I was in our cabin doing some work and drinking coffee and noone bothered to come get me (Bill)! I heard it was amazing.
It was a long day motoring from Trizones to Ithaca. We stopped to swim at a beautiful cove on Ithaca at Gidaki Beach that is mostly visited by boaters though there is a hiking trail from the town of Vathi. There is a boat taxi that ferries people to this beach in the summer but today it was very quiet. Clear cool water, a rocky beach under white cliffs with green shrubs at the top. Kat loaded up with pretty rocks and then wouldn’t come back to the boat. So while the 16 year old was having her way about the rocks, the 16 month old is having a tantrum because he didn’t want to get out of the dingy. So Thanos solved that problem by loading the baby in the dingy and riding to the beach to pickup Kat and her rock collection and bring them all back to the boat!
We docked on the public marina at the Port of Vathi, Ithaca. The town is inside a bay ringed by headlands on both sides. It was chosen as a major seaport in the 16th century because it is not visible from the sea. It’s a beautiful village stacked up the hills with no high rises or resorts. In 1978 a preservation order was established for Ithaca forbidding “unsightly” development. Too bad the rest of Greece didn’t adopt this ordinance.
We didn’t see the rest of the island – we parked ourselves at a seaside cafe in the hot afternoon to read and chill. In the evening wandered the town and brought back take-out souvlaki to eat on the boat – a little tired of eating out and doing the dance to get a check long after we’ve finished eating.
The port is full of yachts, mostly flotillas and some big motor yachts. But I guess it’s an older crowd – they all headed to town to eat around 8pm and then it was very quiet after 11pm. Mike and Diane rented scooters and rode up to a monastery and to an ancient village.
Thanos is the master of med mooring in tight spaces!
I am well into my reading of The Odyssey – a perfect book for this trip! He is now arrived in Ithaca disguised as an old man dressed in rags. There are lots of references to Homer’s writing on the island – shop and street names. Even saw a tshirt that said “I am nobody” – a reference to Odysseus and the Cyclops. The book is about Trojan War hero Odysseus’ long 10 year journey to return to his wife and home in Ithaca and his many challenges and obstacles along the way – a symbol of man’s journey through life?
Greek poet C.P. Cavavy wrote a beautiful poem about Ithaca and that journey home.
When you set out for Ithaka
ask that your way be long,
full of adventure, full of instruction.
The Laistrygonians and the Cyclops,
angry Poseidon – do not fear them:
such as these you will never find
as long as your thought is lofty,
as long as a rare emotion touch your spirit and your body.
The Laistrygonians and the Cyclops,
angry Poseidon – you will not meet them
unless you carry them in your soul,
unless your soul raise them up before you.
Ask that your way be long.
At many a Summer dawn to enter
with what gratitude, what joy –
ports seen for the first time;
to stop at Phoenician trading centres,
and to buy good merchandise,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
and sensuous perfumes of every kind,
sensuous perfumes as lavishly as you can;
to visit many Egyptian cities,
to gather stores of knowledge from the learned.
Have Ithaka always in your mind.
Your arrival there is what you are destined for.
But don’t in the least hurry the journey.
Better it last for years,
so that when you reach the island you are old,
rich with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to give you wealth.
Ithaka gave you a splendid journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She hasn’t anything else to give you.
And if you find her poor, Ithaka hasn’t deceived you.
So wise you have become, of such experience,
that already you’ll have understood what these Ithakas mean.
