May 19 – Undiscovered Cappadoccia
Jumped up out of bed early (6am) to see the balloons coming over the valley from our veranda at Sunrise. 30 to 35 all at different altitudes. The rising sun cast a yellow glow on the hotel. Snapped a couple of proof shots and went back to bed – I am on vacation.
After a hearty Turkish hotel breakfast we started our tour at 10:30 – Undiscovered Cappadoccia. Same guide as the previous day with a full van this time of Americans and Aussies. All young couples except for us. Drove through more rural settings and much less crowded. It was a bit cooler and we needed our jackets on some stops.
First stop was the lovely Greek Village of Mustafapasa (formerly known as Sinasos). A beautiful city with mansions and stone houses and well as many (now unoccupied) cave houses. Once the town had a majority of Greek Christians (2000) living peacefully with about 600 Muslim Turks. After the Balkan wars the Greek and Turkish governments decided to force a population exchange. Most of the Greek Christians living in Turkey had to move to Greece, leaving their homes and most of their belongings while the Muslim Turks living in Greece had to do the same – move to Turkey. What heartbreak that must have been for families who had been living in the same town for centuries. Many of the old homes in Sinasos have been abandoned and some are slowly being renovated. This is a very picturesque village for tourists to stay.
Next stop was Sobessos excavation site – an active archaeology dig with 4th and 5th century Eastern Roman (Byzantine) town. Includes a meeting hall, church, public baths, cemetery and some floor mosaics remain. The site was recently discovered by three Turks who started digging without permission and ended up in jail for 3 years while the Turkish archaeologists continued their work.
Next stop was Sobessos excavation site – an active archaeology dig with 4th and 5th century Eastern Roman (Byzantine) town. Includes a meeting hall, church, public baths, cemetery and some floor mosaics remain. The site was recently discovered by three Turks who started digging without permission and ended up in jail for 3 years while the Turkish archaeologists continued their work.
Our next stop was a church in the countryside over looking fertile valleys with vineyards and other crops. The Kirksehitler church is built into a cave and is only opened for guests of Turkish Heritage Travel and one other travel agency. It is closed to the public while under renovation. Similar to the Dark Church with beautiful frescoes and some in excellent condition. At the lower levels some of the frescoes have been scraped off – a combination of age and vandalism. This church dates to 1216 and was built to honor the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste. These were Christian soldiers who were forced to stand in icy river until they died because they wouldn’t renounce their faith. The church had paintings telling the story of Christ’s life from the Annunciation to the Resurrection. Our guide Fatih is well versed in Christian history and did an excellent job of explaining Turkish history in context of the sites. No pictures allowed inside the church.
The most picturesque part of this day was the Soglani Valley where we hiked about 2 KM. We started at the Kapadokya Restaurant with a nice lunch around 2pm. The village women had tables setup to sell knitted socks and gloves and little so-called Soglani dolls. They had very basic English skills and were a bit pushy. Another women in our group got some great pics by giving this women a 5TL bill instead of buying a doll – which I think are not made locally. I don’t know why all the women are selling hand-knit gloves and socks – big bulky wool things that noone is going to buy in the summer.
We hiked through an abandoned village of stone houses built on a slope on rock formations. There were caves and homes carved into the rock as well as some churches. This area was used by Byzantine monks to setup the first monastic communities. St. Basil and Sts Gregorius formed a simple monastic community that worked closer to the local people. Their monasteries were built in to the rocks.
We visited two cave churches – the Church of the Dome, the Hidden Church and Yilani Kilise (aka the Snake Church and St. George’s Church).
The church of St. George overlooking a lush green valley with a small restaurant and more junk vendors.
I wanted a close up picture of this 89 year old woman so I bought some drinks from the family. I took her picture and then she insisted I pay 5TL for a stupid little doll that was being sold elsewhere for 1 TL. But the photo was worth it.
Now on to another underground city – Derinkuyn. I didn’t want to go underground again so I wandered around the open square and caught up on my journal. I did get suckered into buying a brass key that is supposedly from Ottoman years – to a church. I am sure I got ripped off but I paid 50% of his starting price.
Now it’s time to head back to Goreme to pay our bills and get a taxi up to the Uchisar Castle for sunset and dinner. Up at this castle we had a 360 degree panoramic view of the whole area. Les had gotten a recommendation from our guide on a nearby restaurant, just steps down from the castle. We found the House of Memories where we were welcomed and seated on floor cushions. The room filled up with travelers – from UK, US and France. As more guests arrived they pulled in more little tables and cushions. The walls were covered with rugs and other folk art. It was like eating in someone’s living room. All the guests were chatty, sharing stories of their travels in Turkey and elsewhere. The food was good – not as good as other restaurants in Turkey – but a solid meal at great prices.
By 9:30pm I was ready to go to sleep. We skipped the post meal tea (apple cider like served in glass silhouette cups on a small plate with a small spoon to stir in sugar). The owner sent us home with a friend who had a car. What a memorable way to end our last night in this magical land of Kapodokya – sunset at the top and dinner Turkish style!
Recommendations for Goreme Area
Restaurants
TopDeck Cave Restaurant – make a reservation
Dibek Restaurant – order clay pot dinner in advance
Seten Anatolian Cuisine – at Sultan Cave Suites
Tours
Turkish Heritage Tours – Gizem Fistikeken (goreme.com)
Butterfly Balloons