Day 2 – Exploring Byzantine Istanbul

May 13, 2014 Glorious weather in Istanbul today. Sunny, moderate temps in low 70s and low humidity. Today was our first of two days with a private guide. One of our overall objectives on this trip was to enjoy the destinations and learn about the history and culture without having to participate in large organized tours where you follow a guide holding a teddy bear on a flag pole. We were able to do this by working with some travel consultants and local travel agencies who recommended local guides and day tours in some of our locations. Our guide, Erkut, met us at the hotel and led us all over the city. Today was focused on the Byzantine relics and getting oriented to the layout of the city on foot. We wandered through some new and old neighborhoods along the way. My step counter app says we walked 21000 steps, just over 10 miles. We started in Sultanahmet which is the Old Town walking first along the Hippodrome, where chariot races were held at one time and overlooked by palaces of Byzantine emperors. In the center of the Hippodrome is a tall Egyptian Obelisk thought to be 3600 years old. It was brought to Turkey as a “souvenir” from Egypt.

The Hagia Sophia “museum” is a must see for every first-time Istanbul visitor. This former Christian church was one of the largest domed Orthodox churches for almost a 1000 years. It was built in 572 by Emperor Justinian and was converted to a mosque after the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453. Many of the Christian mosaics were removed or vandalized but a few remain. It is the overall size that impresses as you walk around.

We visited the Basilica Cisterns which were used to store fresh water during Byzantine times. Its dark and eerie with row after row of marble columns removed from pagan buildings and holding up the roof. If you have read Dan Brown’s Inferno, you will recognize the Cistern. 

Cisterns in Istanbul

The most bizarre sight was two columns held up by medusa heads, one on its side and the other upside down. The cisterns were built with remnants and ruins from the buildings and temples of previous civilizations.

Upside down Medusa heads in Basilica Cistern in Istanbul

Istanbul is a city to be explored on foot. And walk we did – through the Spice Bazaar, across the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn, along the famous Istikal pedestrian promenade, and through Beyoglu neighborhood. Eventually we picked up a cab to take us to the Chora Church Museum. This Orthodox Church was built in the 800’s. The word “chora” means “in the country” as this church was originally built outside the city walls. Beautiful mosaics and stonework here. The inside of church was closed due to construction but the frescoes just in the Narthex were amazing. (You will see many pictures of all the Byzantine churches we visited on this trip both in Greece and Turkey) DSCN5311

 Our hotel has lots of great amenities. There is rooftop terrace with views of Gulhane Park and the Bosphorus Straits, a major water way that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara.

In the basement is a small pool and a tradition Turkish Bath with massages. Barb says noone touches her but the rest of us think it sounds like a good idea. I decided to get a Turkish bath and a massage while the rest of them swam in the underground pool. It was a little different but very refreshing and relaxing. Glad I tried something new.

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