Crete (May 17 – 19)

This trip to Greece started out as an idea from Eleni on how we could celebrate her graduation from med school. Knowing that she and Taylor were both going to be unemployed and possibly homeless for a couple of weeks, what better way to celebrate than a vacation with Mom and Dad! Plus a great chance to show her new husband Taylor a place that is very special to our family.

The group expanded to include Brian and Patsy, Aunt Lea, Taylor’s mom Laurie and Lea’s friend Sue.  After several days in Denver of graduation activities, we left on May 17th. We all met up in Athens on the 18th at the departure gate for our flight to Chania Crete. Lea was already in Crete when we got to the village of Archontiki where we had rented a lovely villa just steps away from Uncle Yiannis house. It was a great house for the nine of us plus the Markakis group to gather for meals and conversation. Besides a roomy kitchen and living space, it had two verandas including one on the roof with views to the sea and the mountains and a huge hot tub. Athena House

Mid May in Greece is still definitely spring. We were welcomed with some gully washer rains on arrival and cool weather for a couple of days. Perfect for our first day’s hike through a path along the river behind the village to lower Argiroupolis. Our first Greek meal was at one of the tavernas set among streams and fountains.  The rest of the crew hiked up to Upper Argiropoulis to see the Roman floors and explore the little shops while Bill, Thalia and I went home to chill.

After a very short time to rest, I organized another afternoon adventure – a drive to the Amari Valley. It’s one of the “top ten” areas in Crete to see for natural beauty and not that far from the village. Rolling hills and vistas, ancient churches and villages that don’t see many tourists. We ended up on a “jeep” road which made Bill a little nervous but our little rental car did fine and the valley was filled with wild flowers and herbs and ancient stone fences.

Our main stop was in the village of Thronos where we visited the church of Agia Panagia (Assumption of the Virgin Mary) which was built in the 14th century and sits on the ruins of a 5th century  basilica. Some of the mosaic floors of that early basilica were incorporated into the floor of the present day church. It’s walls and ceiling are covered in painted frescos done in the 14th century.

A little old lady who runs the shop next door scurried over to bring the big key to let us into the tiny church. Because we spoke Greek, we were invited to her so called tavern next door for coffee. The place was a bit of a mess. I don’t think they expected visitors on a weekday afternoon. She served us hot mountain tea picked from Psiloritis mountain as well as a misithra (a soft white sheep’s cheese made from her herd’s milk). She tried very hard to sell us some hand crocheted pieces that she makes – a triangular piece used a head covering for shepherds.

I don’t think the village of Thronos gets many guests. But it is in a lovely position overlooking the Amari Valley and I they have some places to stay and a few restaurants. I love this little hand lettered sign posted by the parking lot.

It was a beautiful afternoon even though there was some grumbling about 4 hours of driving and there was no way we were going to drive again the  next day. We had started out late, around 4pm, and we made it home just in time to see the sunset from our rooftop terrace. Activity three for the day was dinner out at a nearby restaurant run by “talkative” George. We ordered one of everything of the non-traditional variations on Greek and Cretan cooking and some very decadent desserts. Almost all the restaurants in Crete offer a complimentary dessert after the meal and a shot of their local raki.

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