Sep 15 – Porto to Coimbra
Packed up and out of our lodging by 8.15 headed to Porto airport to pickup a rental car from Avis. It was an easy 1.5 hour drive to Bussaco National Forest. Ed did driving and Bill was the navigator. Portugal’s roads are excellent, supported by many expensive tolls. Google Maps took us through a village w steep narrow roads rather than the main road to access the park entrance at Porta das Ameias. The park entrance fee is about 6 euros. There was lots of parking around the convent and hotel. We peeked inside the luxurious hotel (formerly a palace). Rooms for the night were available for 200 euros or less.
We set out on a hike in the surrounding forest. The monastic forest was developed by Carmelite monks in the 17th century. The site also has military significance because Napoleans troops were defeated here during the battle of Bussaco, marking a turning point in his invasion of Portugal. The Duke of Wellington slept at the convent the night after this battle, part of the three year Peninsula Wars.
We chose the Via Sacra (Way of the Cross) hike which visits Stations of the Cross depicting the death and resurrection of Christ. We went as far as station 13, foregoing the 500 meter elevation hike up to Alta Cruz. Each station is basically a small chapel some with lifesize terracotta figures depicting Christ’s journey to the cross at Calvary. At station six we found a cross at a viewpoint overlooking the countryside. The most moving station for Zoe and I was the one where a Jesus meets up with his mother Mary on his way to his crucifixion. This stop was a great respite from the city life.
Our eyes and stomachs were now focused on a meat lover’s lunch in the Mealhada region, known for roasted suckling pig. Rui dos Leitões is the place for locals to eat on Sunday afternoon. There were probably 100 people waiting when we arrived but we were seated within 30 minutes. It’s a simple meal that includes a 1kg cut up pig with crispy skin and a salty gravy. Typical sides are a salad and fried potatoes. With drinks and food, all in for 80 euros.
Arrived Coimbra hotel at 4 with little time to spare before our 5.20pm tour of the famous Joannina library at the University of Coimbra. The Biblioteca Joanina is a Baroque library in the heart of the University of Coimbra. It considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world with 70,000 books. It was somewhat interesting but no guide was provided so we had to eavesdrop on nearby tours. It is famous for its ancient books and The colony of bats that protect the books by eating damaging insects at night. Pictures were not allowed but these photos are available on wikipedia. Just outside the library is a huge plaza with views overlooking the city.
It’s quite hot in the afternoon in Coimbra. After our library visit we found a shady way down to the river through the Jardin Botanico, the University’s 18th century gardens. We walked along the park that borders the Mondego River. On a Sunday afternoon the park and the restaurants were packed.
On our way back to the hotel, we realized that we were staying very close to the old town. Our initial impression of the city upon arrival and the taxi ride up to the university was not great. A bottle of wine on rooftop terrace watching an almost full moon over the historic old town was a good end of the night for me. After 15,000 steps I called uncle and went to bed without dinner.
Coimbra is an old university town, with it’s 13th century University situated on Mount Helicon overlooking the city. The city was once the capitol of Portugal after Guimares and before Lisbon.
Sep 16 – Exploring Coimbra
Hotel Oslo is a decent hotel with a great location to the Old Town, a rooftop terrace and a nice breakfast. The rooms are small and don’t have a frig or coffee making facilities.
The morning weather was nice and cool. Bill and I did some exploring, following part of Rick Steve’s Old Town Walk. We popped into the Church of Santa Cruz church during mass, wandered the unimpressive Mercado Municipal, walked across half of the Pedro and Ines pedestrian bridge. We were back at the hotel by 12.30 to rest until time to meet the Hibs for lunch at Restaurante Fangas Veg located in a narrow street in the Old Town. The wives pushed for a restaurant with healthy non-meat options. We all agreed that the food was quite good.
The temps were quite warm by 2.30 pm so we found a tuk tuk driver to give us a quick 1.5 hr tour of Coimbra’s Old Town, the University, and some key monuments. We were able to get inside the Capela de Sao Miguel at the university with the ticket we’d purchased for the library tour. The architecture on the inside is Manueline. The altar features a set of steps symbolizing Jacobs Ladder and the steps the faithful take on their journey to Heaven. This chapel is just off the main square of the University. The guide took us inside another quiet chapel where we were the only visitors. The Sagrada Familia is part of a seminary.
Our tuk tuk tour buzzed us through the narrow streets of the old town. We passed by the Old Cathedral (Se Velha) but didn’t go in. The sky is very smoky today because of bad fires between here and Porto. Several people have died and some homes destroyed. Scary situation.
Our opinions of Coimbra have vastly improved since our taxi ride on the first day from hotel to the University. The sights that visitors want to see are concentrated in a small area and we have seen most of it. Many sites were closed today as it was Monday.
The 100 year old Cafe Santa Cruz hosts a free fado concert nightly at 6pm. The 45 minute performance with some drinks was a perfect prelude to dinner. Fado is traditional Portuguese music. It’s is mournful and unique. Typically the music is sung by women except in Coimbra where it’s sung by men. I thought it was beautiful and enjoyed both the male singer accompanied by guitar and another instrument.
After the concert we snagged a great table on the small patio at Restaurante Sete located next to the cafe. What a beautiful meal. We had grilled octopus, lamb shank in red wine, a mushroom entree, seven flavors salad, bread and olive oil and two desserts (chocolate cake was best of the two). A bottle of red wine from Doc Tras a Montes was light and soft as described by the sommelier. An amazing dinner, for 108 euros. Wow.
Finished off the evening on the hotel rooftop drinking the white wine we had bought in Douro.